It was a rare site. The Thames Barrier closed this week for only the 195th time in its 38 year history (and the first time this year). This was to prevent potential tidal flooding in London. The combination of a spring tide, low atmospheric pressure and northerly winds created potentially dangerous conditions which necessitated the Barrier’s closure. We were unable to get to see it but we understand from pictures on social media that there was an eerie silence as the waters upstream from the Barrier stopped.
As we approach the end of lockdown 2.0 we hope to be able to start bring you news of events along the Path. These are, of course, subject to change.
The outdoor ice-skating rink at Hampton Court Palace is scheduled to open on December 5 and will continue until January 17. Why not combine it with a walk? The gardens and maze are already open as usual.
A 90-minute film retracing Mayflower passenger Stephen Hopkins’ life criss-crossing the Atlantic is being shown online as part of the 400 year celebration of the Mayflower. The Mayflower was docked on the Thames in Rotherhithe before setting off to Plymouth and the New World. The film is being shown online on Sunday 22 November between 2.30pm and 4.30pm.
Despite rising water levels the Path seems to be firm and dry throughout.
Hammersmith Bridge is likely to remain closed for the foreseeable future. A ferry is being proposed which hopes to be operational by Spring 2021.
The village of Wolvercote provides an excellent jumping-off point for the Thames Path, with shops, pubs, parking and a bus service to Oxford. Godstow Bridge, which crosses the Thames here, has one of the iconic Thames Path pubs: The Trout – one of three Trout pubs along the Thames.
Immediately on joining the Thames Path, on the right bank of the river, the ruins of Godstow Abbey come into view. Godstow Abbey was founded in 1133 and housed a community of Benedictine nuns. Rosalind Clifford, the mistress of Henry II, entered the nunnery here shortly before her death. The abbey fell into disuse following the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII in 1538. Following dissolution it was briefly a house but was damaged during the Civil War in 1645. It has never recovered. ABBA fans may be interested to know that the Abbey featured in the opening scenes of Mamma Mia Here We Go Again.
Godstow Lock lies just a few yards downstream. Constructed in 1790 it is the first lock on the Thames (walking downstream) that is mechanised. It was in the surrounding meadows that Oxford tutor Charles Dodgson had picnics with his friend Henry Liddell and Henry’s daughters, Lorina, Alice and Edith. Alice in Wonderland was thus created.
Past Godstow Lock the view across the river opens up as the large flat plain of Port Meadow can be seen on the other side of the river. The meadow has been used for grazing for 1,000 years, the land being given to the freemen of Oxford by Alfred the Great. You can still see horses grazing there.
The river here follows the western edge of the meadow. Although it is possible to walk though the meadow on the other side of the river, the land is prone to flooding. You may have to retrace your steps!
Staying on the Thames Path, the Perch pub offers further refreshments, particularly welcome if you did not stop at the Trout. It’s a 1/4 mile walk along a lane to the pub which is in the village of Binsey.
Shortly past Binsey, the Path crosses a small bridge to reach Fiddler’s Island, a long narrow island in the Thames and lying closer to the right bank than the left. A further footbridge provides access to the other side of the river where a car park can be reached at the southern end of Port Meadow at Jericho, a suburb on the outskirts of Oxford. Oxford is now just a mile away but we will leave that part of the Path for another time.
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