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A dry western Ridgeway |
We’ve reached the end of August and, aside from the last few days, we’ve had no rain for around 2 months now. Much of England is in an official drought. Temperatures have remained high. Fortunately cooler weather and rain is arriving which should co-incide nicely with the return of walkers as we enter our second peak of September.
We mentioned in our last newsletter that we had accompanied a journalist from the Daily Telegraph. Finally the piece appeared although you might have to pay to see it. Anyway, here it is if you want to try.
We have three new diversions on the Thames Path. Read on. In the meantime we leave you with a photo of Temple Bridge which remains closed. The blue boat on the other side of the river is Bryan Ferry who transfers walkers across the river whilst the bridge is out of action. We paid them a visit this month.
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Bryan Ferry on the other side of Temple Bridge on the Thames Path |
Thames Path Route News
Now for a big diversion. For some weeks now we’ve noticed a lot of fencing and heavy machinery around the fields adjoining the A415 between Culham and Clifton Hampden. The road here runs parallel to the river. It seems that a major road improvement scheme is to be built from the A34 at Milton (near Didcot) to just north of Clifton Hampden. The new road will cross the Thames via a new bridge west of Appleford.
Whilst writing this newsletter, the Path has now been diverted along the A415 from Culham to just short of Clifton Hampden. A half mile before Clifton Hampden the diversion takes you back to the river at Clifton Lock and, from there, to Clifton Hampden, a total distance of a mile. So we suspect most will simply walk directly to Clifton Hampden. The map below will hopefully clarify.
Also, be warned that the Path is not fenced off at either end of the diversions. If walking downstream there is a notice at Culham to say Path Closed but no physical barrier. Don’t ignore the sign as you might walk for a mile and a half and find you have to turn back. Walking upstream is equally perilous as there is no warning at Clifton Hampden. You will only be informed once you reach the closure at Clifton Lock.
Although quite long, the diversion doesn’t add any material distance but it will be in place until likely Spring 2028! We’ll take a look at an alternative route south of the river. However, there is significant construction work there too.
There’s also a small diversion near Oxford to add to the list. This is between Donnington Bridge and Iffley Lock, about a half mile, where the riverbank is being repaired. The Path has been diverted through Iffley Meadows.
And finally a diversion that escaped our attention is in Greenwich. You’ll find it on walking downstream from Greenwich as you walk north up the Greenwich Peninsula towards the O2. It starts just past Enderby House pub and finishes at the golf range before the O2. It’s nasty for 2 reasons: 1) The diversion takes you through some uninspiring landscapes including the approach road for the Blackwall Tunnel; 2) It’s very poorly signposted.
We’ve posted quite a detailed description on our route alerts page on the website. In view of the changing weather, here is a link to our flood alerts page. As yet, this has not required an entry this season but who knows what September may bring.
Long-standing diversions:
Abingdon: As you approach Abingdon in a downstream direction, the Path switches from the right bank to the left bank via a walkway across the weir. Due to corrosion, this walkway has been closed and the Path re-routed via Abingdon town centre.
The diversion to avoid the closed boardwalk at Marsh Lock Henley now starts at Shiplake and takes you briefly into the Chilterns. The diversion adds an extra 1.0 miles to the walk although feedback that we’ve received is that it feels much longer! But, bear in mind that the distance from Shiplake to Henley is already 2.4 miles. So the diversion is therefore 3.4 miles in total.
The diversion at Temple Bridge is still in place following its closure. The diversion makes use of the lane running from Temple to Bisham and then a road with a pavement into Marlow. A ferry service (Bryan Ferry) runs back and forth across the river on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday thus avoiding the need for a diversion.
And damage to a bridge over a tributary has caused a diversion from just past the Runnymede Hotel to shortly before Staines. The diversion uses the A308 (pavements) returning the walker to the riverbank just before the bridge at Staines. The diversion replaces about 0.6 miles of the route with minimal added distance. The diversion is set to be in place until 2026. The signage for this diversion is not that obvious.
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Diversion route (green) between Culham and Clifton Hampden |
When is a hotel not a hotel?
We’re giving some space in this newsletter to ask this question. The purpose of this is to highlight a growing number of establishments that use the word “hotel” but don’t function as one. Here are our own definitions:
Bed and Breakfast – a private home offering a room and breakfast. Often later check-ins than hotels as there may be only one member of staff.
Pub with rooms – primarily a pub which may or may not serve meals (most now do!) and may or may not serve breakfast. Usually opens at noon.
Hotel – reception open all day; meals and light refreshments available all day from breakfast, through lunch and into dinner.
There are a number of establishments that we have come across that have the name “Hotel” in the title but are not open during the day, some not offering meals. These include the Vale Hotel, Cricklade (Thames Path), the George Hotel, Great Missenden (Chilterns) and the Cherry Tree Hotel, Chinnor (Ridgeway). In the case of the Vale, check-in is at 5pm as there is no onsite reception. The George is self check-in using a security code but there is no one onsite at all. The Cherry Tree has someone onsite during the day as it also serves as a cafe, but there’s no provision for an evening meal. Each of these, in our opinion, fail the test to be called a hotel. The point of all this is that, if you are making your own bookings, be sure to know whether they will be open when you want them to be, and what the meal provision is.
We’ve been following with interest the tragic story of the incident at Travelodge, Maidenhead. We had reason to write to them recently as our bag transfer service was initially turned away at Marlow on account of lack of space. They were just 2 bags! In the end they were begrudgingly accepted. We wrote to Head Office (physical letter as there’s no customer service email on their website) asking for clarification of bag storage policy across the 16 sites that we have visited but, after six weeks, have yet to receive a reply.
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The Vale Hotel, Cricklade. But is it? |
This summer, Peter joined Hampshire Countryside Access Team and many other volunteers in a major project to improve a stretch of the Itchen Navigation – a beautiful riverside path that also forms part of the St James’ Way.
Over ten weeks, the project delivered major improvements to the riverside path, involving 65 tons of chalk, 75 metres of revetment, 275 chestnut posts, 30 coir rolls, 25 tons of gravel, and hundreds of volunteer hours. We turned up in all weathers – mainly scorching hot – to help make this well‑loved section safer and more accessible for all walkers.
Contributing to the upkeep of the St James’ Way is simply part of caring for a route that brings so much pleasure to our walkers. When you pass through Shawford, we hope you enjoy the newly restored section – and perhaps treat yourself to an ice cream at Platform 1 Coffeehouse & Gelateria.
A huge thank‑you to Hampshire Countryside Access Team and all volunteers involved. It was a true community effort, and we’re proud to have played a part.
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Photos courtesy of Hampshire Countryside Access Team |
The Chilterns
Accommodation in The Chilterns is scarce. The Frog at Skirmett once offered accommodation along with its standard pub fare. Situated high up in the Hambleden Valley it offered good value food and lodgings for discerning walkers. That closed in 2024. Driving past from time to time we noticed that the property was being majorly refurbished. At this point we were sure it was going to go the way of many country pubs: conversion to a residential property. A growing trend, something that Russel Brand tried to do in nearby Pishill. The absence of the pub sign was a big clue.
We were therefore quite surprised when, approaching completion, a new sign appeared: The King’s Cow. So it seems that it has re-opened as pub/restaurant which is great. Not only that but the website had, alongside table reservations, a link to room reservations. And here our hopes were dashed. All rooms start from £300 per night.
There’s still hope. Many an accommodation we’ve seen open up with high prices only to relent some months later. So we’ll keep a watching brief here and hope for the best. And despite the continued practical absence of accommodation in Skirmett, we can still provide achievable itineraries along the Chiltern Way and also on our bespoke Chiltern Ramble.
Meanwhile we managed to get close to rather an unusual sight near the Chiltern Way, pictured below. It’s called Nuba Survival and is found in a field next to a derelict farm building. It was designed by John Buckley who also designed the shark that sticks out of a roof in Headington, Oxford. It’s been there for a number of years but is rather hidden.
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Nuba Survival by John Buckley |
The Ridgeway
It’s not often we report on route news along The Ridgeway. Aside from a small diversion in Wendover on account of HS2 (the new rail link from London to Birmingham) it remains completely free of trouble. But there is actually a consultation to vary the route where it crosses the A4130 near Nuffield. It seems that whoever bought a house with a National Trail running through it is having second thoughts. Caveat Emptor springs to mind. Anyway, any rerouting will be very small but the issue is that it might set a dangerous precedent. We mustn’t let our paths and trails be threatened by landowners.
Driving out along the Western Ridgeway towards Ashbury one Sunday morning we noticed a crowd accumulating on Dragon Hill. Dragon Hill is where St George slew the Dragon. It’s true, really! The hill sits just below the White Horse of Uffington, the oldest White Horse in the UK, some 3,000 years old. On investigation it was the start of the White Horse Folk Festival with traditional dancing taking place.
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Traditional dancing on Dragon Hill, The Ridgeway |
Kennet and Avon Canal/Great West Way
On a relatively quiet Sunday whilst delivering bags we saw Wilton Windmill in the distance. A short detour took us there. The five-storey windmill was built in 1821 following the construction of the canal which removed many of the water mills. River levels also dropped as water was used to feed the canal.
The mill operated for about 100 years and then fell into disrepair. It was restored in 1976 and is now the only working windmill in Wessex.
The windmill lies about a mile from Crofton Lock on the Kennet and Avon Canal and on both our Great West Way and Kennet & Avon Canal walks.
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Wilton Windmill |
And finally....
Before our September peak kicks off we were able to take a short break in Yorkshire. Two key takeaways: 1) How refreshing to see green fields. 2) Climbing stiles is really hard work – especially with a dog.
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