This detour has the small advantage of avoiding a walk through a housing estate. It also has the large advantage that it is completely dry so is recommended when there is a lot of standing water. It is also definitely recommended during the Reading Festival as the Thames Path passes alongside the festival site. The festival takes place during the August Bank Holiday weekend. You will miss the views of Hardwick and Mapledurham Houses but you will get up close to the latter. Most important of all – it’s shorter – especially if you’re not stopping in Pangbourne for the night!
If not stopping in Pangbourne then, as you come down Whitchurch Hill from Goring, take the road to your left (Hardwick Road).
If coming from Pangbourne, cross Whitchurch Bridge and turn right onto Eastfield Lane which is found between the Ferryboat and the Greyhound. Follow the road to the end and take a footpath to your left. This takes you to Hardwick Road.
Follow Hardwick Road, passing the Bozedown Alpaca Farm on your right, until the road sharp left opposite a fruit and vegetable stand on your right. Go straight on entering the Hardwick Estate. The estate road passes through Hardwick Estate with Hardwick House about half-way to your right although obscured by trees. Hardwick House was built in the early 16th century. It is said that King Charles I played bowls there whilst he was a prisoner in Caversham following the English Civil War.
The house was purchased by Charles Rose at the start of the 20th century. Rose was somewhat of a buccaneer who rode, sailed and flew. Some believe he is the inspiration for Mr Toad in The Wind in the Willows and, therefore, that Hardwick House is, in fact, Toad Hall. Kenneth Grahame lived for a while in Pangbourne. The house is still owned by the Rose family.
At East Lodge the track leaves Hardwick Estate only to enter adjoining Mapledurham Estate. A footpath to your left will take you to the top of a hill with commanding views over Purley on Thames below.
The track ends at a road. Turn right here and walk down towards the river. Although the route turns off to the left behind Mapledurham House it’s worth spending a few minutes walking down row of almshouses to the church and the back of the house.
Mapledurham House is a grand 15th century property built in the traditional shape of an E for Queen Elizabeth I. Remarkably the house has remained in the same family, the Blounts, since it was built. The house remained Catholic during the reformation and there are priest holes in the property. There is a Catholic chapel inside the house where services are still held monthly by the local parish in Caversham.
The neighbouring church of St Margaret’s is worth a visit. There is a chancel to the right of the nave which is permanently locked. The chancel belongs to the house and therefore has not been used since the Reformation: the only Anglican church in England with a Catholic chancel!
Aside from the historical and architectural interest, the house is famous for two cultural reasons: it was the filming location for The Eagle Has Landed with Michael Caine and Donald Sutherland; and some believe that it, not Hardwick House, is Toad Hall.
Whilst the house itself is not particularly interesting, the grounds include the water mill which uses an archimedes screw to generate electricity. Those who have watched The Eagle had Landed will be familiar with that water mill.
Return back up the road turning right on a farm road running along the side of the house. This road runs through farmland for 1.8 miles until it meets a tree-lined avenue, The Warren. This road, although a public road, is almost free of traffic. To your right are the grand houses of Caversham which overlook the river. You can see the Thames Path opposite.
After just over a half mile you meet St Peter’s Church. Walk through the churchyard and you’ll see a gate on your right which takes you into Caversham Court. A number of houses have existed here, the most recent being a large rectory which was demolished in 1933. The footprint of the house is clearly visible and serves as a stage for Reading Open Air Shakespeare in July. The gardens are well worth wandering through. You can get back onto the road to Caversham Bridge by leaving via the entrance next to the café.
At Caversham Bridge you can either carry on to Reading Bridge on the same side of the river; or cross to the other side and follow the official Thames Path. There is construction work ongoing on the Reading side so the Caversham side is marginally better.
Impact on distance: This is quite a saving because a large bend in the river is avoided. If you’re not stopping in Pangbourne then it’s 1.25 miles shorter. If you’re stopping in Pangbourne then it’s less at 0.6 miles as you have to retrace your steps up Whitchurch Hill.
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