Source to Woolwich – Easy
17 walking days
18 nights accommodation
Walking distance 190 miles
This itinerary starts at the source of the Thames in Gloucestershire and works its way down through arable and pasture lands passing through the cities and towns of Oxford, Reading and Windsor. The walk is completely flat but can be wet/muddy underfoot.
The Path is well signposted and follows the riverbank almost all of the time.
Itinerary
Day 0 Arrive at Thames Head Inn
Arrive at your leisure at the Thames Head Inn near Kemble. If you wish, you can take a stroll in the afternoon up to the source of the Thames and back again (round trip 1.4 miles). This will save you some time tomorrow. Enjoy a hearty dinner in the hotel’s restaurant.
Day 1 Source to Cricklade 12.9 miles
The Journey
If you did not take a pre-dinner stroll to the source yesterday, you will set off today to find the source of the Thames. It’s quite possible that you won’t see water for the first mile or so. If there is water, it will just be a trickle running through the many fields.
At about half way the landscape changes as you enter the Cotswold Water Park where disused gravel pits have been turned into a number of lakes, the path threading between them. Pause to observe the many birds.
After 7 miles you reach Ashton Keynes which is a useful place to stop for lunch. There is a pub and a shop. Beyond the village you will pass by more lakes until, shortly before Cricklade, you will walk through the meadows of North Cricklade National Nature Reserve where 80% of the nation’s snakeshead fritillaries can be found in spring.
The Destination
Cricklade is a small town with plenty of facilities to recharge the batteries after a longish first day of walking. There are shops, pubs and restaurants.
The river runs past the end of the High Street. Your hotel will be The Red Lion, a 16th century Inn, which is conveniently at the “river” end of the High Street. The inn has its own microbrewery and a delightful beer garden at the back. There is no food service on Sunday evenings but there are plenty of independent restaurants in town.
Almost directly opposite the Red Lion is St Mary’s Church. The building was leased from the Church of England in 1984 and, since the building predates the Reformation, it is officially the oldest Catholic church in England. The building was founded nearly 1,000 years ago and has a fine 12th Century Chancel Arch .
Day 2 Cricklade to Lechlade 10.1 miles
The Journey
You have now left the water parks behind and, instead, you will follow the river almost all the way, passing through arable and pasture fields. After 4.5 miles you will reach the small village of Castle Eaton where you can get lunch at another Red Lion! – unless you bought sandwiches from Tesco in Cricklade.
After Castle Eaton you temporarily leave the Thames as you walk through farmlands. To your left, on the other side of the river, is RAF Fairford. So don’t be surprised if you see something spectacular in the skies.
Shortly before you reach your destination you will pass the hamlet of Inglesham which has a Grade I listed church and is open to visitors.
The Destination
Much prettier than its neighbour, Cricklade, Lechlade also has pubs, restaurants, cafes and shops, and with a delightfully-named bridge: Halfpenny Bridge, which takes you into the town. Lechlade marks the start of the navigable part of the Thames so you will probably see your first boats.
You will stay at the New Inn, a 17th century coaching inn lying in the heart of the town.
St Lawrence Church, just next door to the New Inn, is where the poet Shelley (1792 to 1822) wrote “A Summer Evening Churchyard”. Shelley’s second wife, Mary, was the author of Frankensetin.
Day 3 Lechlade to Tadpole Bridge 10.4 miles
The Journey
Unlike yesterday, you will never stray from the river. Soon after leaving Lechlade you will arrive at the first of the 45 locks that make the Thames navigable. You will pass five today! You will also see your first of many pillboxes. These formed a line of defence to protect the rest of England should the south-east be invaded during World War II.
After 3 miles you can detour briefly through the village of Kelmscott. This was the summer residence of the celebrated designer William Morris. His house, Kelmscott Manor, is open to visitors from Thursday to Saturday between April and October.
Ye Olde Swan at Radcot Bridge, the oldest surviving bridge on the Thames, makes a great place for lunch.
The Path continues on the other side of the river until you reach Tadpole Bridge.
The Destination
You will stay at the Trout at Tadpole Bridge. Unlike at Cricklade and Lechlade, once at Tadpole Bridge you will not want to move from the hotel as there is nothing else around! Indeed, this is the wildest and most remote part of the entire Thames.
So, just relax in the comfort of this fine hotel and particularly enjoy the beer garden which looks out onto the river.
Day 4 Tadpole Bridge to Bablock Hythe 9.2 miles
The Journey
You continue to follow the river which passes through Chimney Meadows, a nature reserve. Fields, once planted with wheat and barley, are now colourful, species-rich wildflower meadows.
After 6 miles of wilderness you will arrive at Newbridge where you can obtain lunch at either of two pubs here: The Rose Revived or The Maybush.
Back on the river you will soon arrive at Northmoor Lock where you can fill up with water before walking the final 2 miles to Bablock Hythe.
The Destination
Your accommodation is The Ferryman, so called because the pub used to ferry people back and forth across the river. In fact, the Thames Path used to cross to the other side of the river here following the right bank.
It’s a remote spot and, once again, you are held captive. But there is plenty of river traffic here as there is a slipway for boats. Sit and enjoy the view from the beer garden.
Day 5 Bablock Hythe to Oxford 9.8 miles
The Journey
The last four days have been spent walking through fields, mostly by the river. On your last day you will encounter some more variety.
After 4 miles you will see Swinford Bridge, a toll bridge where fare increases require an Act of Parliament which goes someway to explain why the current fare for vehicles is just 5p!
For a while you will walk alongside Wytham Woods before the Thames turns sharply south at Kings Lock, the most northerly point on the Thames, with Oxford its target.
Before reaching Oxford you will pass Godstow Lock with yet another Trout pub, which makes a convenient place for lunch, as well as the ruins of Godstow, a Benedictine Abbey founded in 1133.
There is one more potential refreshment stop between you and Oxford, The Perch at Binsey, before walking the final 1.5 miles to complete your journey at Osney Bridge, Oxford.
The Destination
You will leave the Path at Osney Bridge, the gateway to Oxford, the centre being about a half mile from the bridge. Oxford is the oldest and most celebrated university town in Europe. It is also home to J R Tolkien, Cardinal John Neumann and Harry Potter!
Oxford is a place to linger. And you don’t need to dig deep to enjoy. Highlights are Christ Church cathedral, Christ Church college founded by Cardinal Wolsey, the Bodleian Library which houses every single book ever published in the UK, Magdalen College, the Radcliffe Camera, and the Ashmolean Museum (free admission).
You will stay at Bath Place Hotel, once frequented by Elisabeth Taylor, and situated in the heart of the old University, handy for sightseeing and restaurants.
Day 6 Oxford to Abingdon 10.6 miles
The Journey
The Path starts a mile from your hotel so you will walk back through the town, past the railway station to Osney Bridge where you pick up the Thames Path.
After a mile on the Thames you pass the lovely Folly Bridge with Christ Church meadow behind.
After four miles of pleasant river walking, where you will inevitably see rowing crews exercising, you will arrive at Sandford Lock where, if it’s not too early, you can have lunch at the Kings Arms.
Beyond Sandford the suburbs of Oxford are now far behind and the Path becomes very quiet. You will pass the boat house of Radley College, the famous school, and, across the river is Nuneham House, the grounds designed by Capability Brown.
Trees line the river giving you welcome shade as you make your final stretch to the market town of Abingdon.
The Destination
Abingdon is a historic market town. A Benedictine abbey was founded here as far back as the 7th century although there’s little left of it now. There are numerous shops, hotels, restaurants, bars and cafes. It also marks the end point of “Swan Upping” where new-born swans of the River Thames are divided and marked between ancient companies. Abingdon’s more recent claim to fame is as home to MG cars.
You will stay at Cosener’s House which sits in the beautiful grounds of the Abbey on the right bank of the Thames a few metres upstream from the bridge. The house takes its name from Cuisinier, the person responsible for feeding the Abbey.
Dinner can be enjoyed at the hotel or, alternatively, in one of the many restaurants in the town.
Day 7 Abingdon to Dorchester 8.2 miles
The Journey
You are soon out of Abingdon keeping to the left bank of the Thames past Culham until, after 5.4 miles, you reach the lovely village of Clifton Hampden where there is a shop and a pub, The Barley Mow.
Dorchester soon appears across the fields to your left but, before you leave the Path for your hotel, you may be tempted to make a detour to the top of Wittenham Clumps, a modest hill of almost 400 feet and the highest land around. It’s just to your right and only adds an extra 1.8 miles. Well worth it if the weather is fine.
Back down from the Clumps (or not!), you will carry on until you meet the junction between the river Thames and Thame where you will leave the Path for about 0.5 mile to walk to Dorchester.
The Destination
Dorchester is a beautiful village. It was the first capital of Wessex before Winchester. An Abbey was founded in the middle ages and the current church dates back 600 years. The Abbey is open every day for visitors and there is a museum here too. The Abbey holds classical music concerts at various times throughout the year.
You will be staying at The White Hart, a 16th century coaching inn in the heart of the village and close to the Abbey.
Day 8 Dorchester to Goring and Streatley 12.1 miles
The Journey
Shortly after setting off, the Path diverts from the river for the first time to take you through the village of Shillingford and down to the lovely Shilingford Bridge, a perfect opportunity to stop for coffee at the hotel on the other side of the bridge.
You will soon be at Benson where you will see plenty of boats as the marina here is the base for a large boating holiday company. You might also see helicopters as RAF Benson is close by.
The historic town of Wallingford is next, hopefully in time for lunch. The castle here, of which the ruins remain, was an important stronghold during the wars between King Stephen and Empress Matilda. Why not stop at the museum?
From Wallingford you follow the right bank of the Thames, diverting from the river for a mile to go through Moulsford. A further 2.5 miles along the river, and under Brunel’s magnificent Moulsford Railway Bridge, and you will arrive at Goring and Streatley.
The Destination
There are few places as pretty as Goring and Streatley and it’s therefore a perfect place to stop. Goring is on the left bank and Streatley on the right – although they seem to get along together fine. There are plenty of shops, pubs and restaurants for you to unwind. You will be staying at the Miller of Mansfield in the heart of the village, renowned for its quirky bedrooms.
After you’ve had a rest, take a short walk and admire the weir and the mill. Mill Cottage is world famous as it was owned by George Michael and is where he died. He’s not the only musician to have lived here: Pete Townshend of The Who had a recording studio here. In fact, you passed the cottage at Cleeve Lock where he wrote Quadrophenia.
Day 9 Goring & Streatley to Reading 11.9 miles
The Journey
The day starts with one of the prettiest sections of the Thames as you briefly climb 100 feet out of the woods into the Chiltern hills and look across the “Goring Gap” to the Berkshire Downs. You will catch a glimpse of Basildon Park opposite, a Palladian style mansion that gave its name to the writing paper.
A steep descent takes you across a tollbridge into Kenneth Grahame’s Pangbourne. You are now in “Wind in the Willows” country and you will pass Hardwick and Mapledurham Houses, both of which are contenders for Toad Hall.
At Mapledurham Lock you leave the Thames briefly and walk through Purley on Thames rejoining the river at Tilehurst ready for the final 3 miles of your holiday. Admire the grand houses across the river as you walk through fields and then parkland towards Caversham Bridge. Only another half a mile and you arrive at Reading Bridge, the end of your walk.
The Destination
Reading is the first sizeable town since Oxford. In fact, it is the largest town in England. Despite its modern appearance it is of historical significance. Reading Abbey was founded in 1121 and it is believed Henry I, son of William the Conqueror, rests here. Reading is famous for its 3 B’s: biscuits, bulbs and brewing. Sadly, they have all long gone.
You will stay at 1843 which takes its name from the year it was built. Originally a scientific and literary institute frequented by Charles Dickens, it has recently been tastefully modernised.The library plays tribute to its former life.
The hotel sits close to the town centre where there are plenty shops, bars and restaurants at the Oracle Centre which runs alongside the Kennet and Avon Canal. Alternatively you can take a few moments to see the Abbey ruins which marks the start of the Camino Ingles, which runs all the way to Santiago de Compostela, as well as Reading Gaol, once home to Oscar Wilde.
Day 10 Reading to Hambleden 12.0 miles
The Journey
It’s a half mile walk through the town centre to reach the Thames at Reading Bridge, or you can follow our recommended detour along the Kennet and Avon Canal which meets the Thames a little downstream from Reading Bridge. You follow the right bank of the river until you reach Sonning three miles later. Sonning is a delightfully pretty village. In fact, it is so beautiful that it has become popular with the rich and famous: George Clooney and Teresa May both live here.
You cross the river and follow the left bank for 3.3 miles to Shiplake, a small village that makes a suitable lunch spot with a pub and shop.
It’s an easy 2.5 miles to your destination of Henley. At Marsh Lock the path takes you on boardwalks across the river to the lock on the other side. As you approach Henley you will pass the River and Rowing Museum, a great place to stop and learn.
Note: the boardwalk is currently closed and a temporary diversion is in place passing through Harpsden Woods. This adds an extra mile to your walk.
Across the bridge at Henley you pass in front of the famous Leander Club, home of British rowing and follow the river as it skirts the edge of the Chiltern hills, passing Temple Island which marks the start of the annual regatta.
The Destination
It’s a short walk of less than a mile to Hambleden, a pretty village of brick and flint cottages. St Mary’s church dates from the 14th century. Hambleden was the home of William Henry Smith, founder (in 1821) of a famous chain of bookshops; and Lord Cardigan, famous for his role in leading the ill-fated Charge of the Light Brigade.
The Stag and Huntsman can be found in the heart of this picture-postcard village. The building is timber-framed with wood sourced locally from the nearby forests. The inn sits on the Culden Faw Estate which you have been walking through for the last few miles. There are eight ensuite bedrooms with large comfortable beds and indulgent bathrooms. Seasonal dishes are served throughout the day.
Day 11 Hambleden to Cookham 12.1 miles
The Journey
Shortly after rejoining the river at Hambleden you will leave it briefly and walk through the estate of Culham Court, another beautiful mansion complete with a park full of white deer.
After 4.5 miles from Hambleden you will arrive at the lovely village of Hurley, a great place to stop for lunch: there are two pubs and a tea shop. It’s a popular spot for picnics.
As you leave Hurley, you will see Bisham Abbey across the river. It’s home to the National Sports Centre. Marlow, with its magnificent suspension bridge, is two miles away. Note: there is a diversion currently in place which means you will pass on the same side of the river as Bisham Abbey allowing you to visit.
Past Marlow you will cross the river at Bourne End and it’s a short hop through Cookham Marsh where you should see plenty of sailing dinghies.
The Destination
Cookham is a pretty village by the river with a good choice of restaurants. You will be staying at Bel and the Dragon, a 600 year old coaching inn.
This is the only night on the itinerary where you are staying in a small village. So enjoy the peace and quiet that Cookham offers. Cookham Moor, which lies just behind the hotel, is an ancient common now owned by the National Trust. Villagers once had the right to graze their animals on this land.
If you get a chance, you should visit the Stanley Spencer Gallery. Spencer was born in Cookham in 1891 and lived there all his life. The gallery is open until 5.30pm in the summer months.
Day 12 Cookham to Windsor 9.9 miles
The Journey
What a treat we have in store for you today! Within minutes of setting off to rejoin the Thames from your hotel you will see, in the distance, one of the greatest country houses in England: Cliveden.
Cliveden was home to the Astor family and is, of course, the infamous site of the Profumo affair. In fact, a few yards further on, you will see Spring Cottage which Stephen Ward rented.
The walk down to Maidenhead is firm underfoot and you will pass between the river and the gardens of many a grand house.
You arrive at Maidenhead bridge at about half way. The town is a mile away but there is a shop and a hotel by the bridge where you can get lunch. Unless you have something more grand in mind: for a mile further on you will see, temptingly across the river, the Waterside Inn at Bray. Bray is home to two of only five “Michelin three star” restaurants in the country, the other being Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck.
The stretch of the Thames to Dorney is through wooded glades and you will see Bray Film Studios and Oakley Court (where many Hammer Horror films were made). At Dorney Lake, site of the rowing events in the London Olympics, the vista opens up and you will see Windsor Castle calling you in the distance.
The Destination
Having hopefully arrived in the early afternoon you should have time to explore this wonderful town. You also have a short day tomorrow so you could postpone some until then.
You will be staying at The George at Eton, a stone’s throw across the river from Windsor. After a short rest, take a walk across the bridge and up the high street and admire the castle on your left. It’s the longest-serving royal residence in Europe. It’s open until 5.15pm so you should have a chance to visit.
At the end of the high street is Park Street. Go to the end and you will step onto the Long Walk, a carriageway that leads straight from Windsor Castle, through Windsor Great Park, to a statue of George III just visible three miles away. This is the route that the monarch takes every year when they visit Royal Ascot.
Back at your hotel, you can wander in the other direction towards Eton College, the most famous school in the world. The school is not a campus. Its buildings straddle the high street so you can quite easily get a glimpse of school life as boys rush between buildings dressed in their morning coats. Tours are offered on Friday afternoons between April and August.
Day 13 Windsor to Chertsey Bridge 12.1 miles
The Journey
The Path follows the Thames out of Windsor where you will have good views of Windsor Castle across the Home Park. You will soon pass the village of Datchet and then Old Windsor where you can stop at the Bells of Ouzeley for refreshments.
An alternative is to go through Windsor town centre and follow the Long Walk through Windsor Great Park and rejoin the Thames at Runnymede. It’s not officially the Thames Path but it’s a jolly good detour and about the same distance.
Once out of Old Windsor you will walk through the fields of Runnymede where King John reluctantly signed Magna Carta back in 1215. There are a number of monuments here worth visiting: the Magna Carta and JFK Memorials both being close to the Path. The Air Force Memorial on top of Cooper’s Hill is also worth a visit. Although further, on a fine day you will be able to see London in the distance.
The town of Staines lies just beyond Runnymede after which you will follow the riverbank past Laleham and the lovely Penton Hook Island all the way to Chertsey.
The Destination
The historic town of Chertsey lies a mile to your right. Thankfully you don’t have to walk there as you will be staying at The Bridge, a lovely hotel overlooking the river. The hotel offers all day dining. Chertsey Bridge, comprising seven arches, is one of the most beautiful bridges on the Thames and was completed in 1785.
Day 14 Chertsey to Kingston-on-Thames 11.2 miles
On leaving the hotel, you will pass through the last fields of the Path (the rest of the path is firm underfoot with either gravel or tarmac). You soon arrive at Shepperton Lock where a treat awaits. The Path continues on the other side of the river and a boat will take you across for a nominal fee. Although it leaves every 15 minutes you must still ring the ship’s bell!
Once on the other side you follow the “cut” to Walton where there is a welcome café by the bridge. Leaving Walton you will see the picturesque town of Sunbury on the other side of the river. There’s no way to cross. Instead you must content yourself with the reservoirs that line your side of the Thames, some of which are now nature reserves. You soon arrive at Hampton Court after passing many houseboats that line the river.
The Thames Path conveniently crosses the bridge at Hampton Court to where the Palace lies. The Palace was built by Cardinal Wolsey during the reign of Henry VIII. He gave it to Henry in 1529 in an effort to stay in his favour having failed to get the Pope to grant an anullment for his marriage to Catherine of Aragon. Wolsey died a year later. The Palace was one of Henry’s favourites and still belongs to the Crown. The Palace, with its Great Hall, Tudor kitchens and extensive gardens and maze is well worth visiting.
Destination
Three miles further lies Kingston, once the coronation site of Saxon kings. Now it’s a modern commercial centre. It also marked the starting point of Jerome K Jerome’s Three Men in a Boat. Just across the bridge from Kingston is the village of Hampton Wick where you will find the White Hart, a popular inn with Thames Path walkers.
Day 15 Kingston-on-Thames to Hammersmith Bridge 11.4 miles
The Journey
From Kingston the river starts to meander as it works its way into London through the suburban towns and villages. The first of these is Teddington where the river becomes tidal. From here you have the choice of walking on the right or left banks all the way to Greenwich. As there are a number of places along the way for you to visit, your choice of which side might be dictated by these. But you can chop and change crossing the many bridges
On the right bank is Ham House, a National Trust property, Richmond and Kew. In fact, you will also pass the back of Kew Gardens as well as one of the entrances. Beyond Kew are Mortlake and Barnes. The right bank is surprisingly green considering that we’re only 10 miles from the capital with the London Wetland Centre close by.
The left bank is more urban, passing through Twickenham, Isleworth, Brentford and Chiswick . You will walk past Syon House, the home of the Duke of Northumberland, Marble Hill House, the fabulous Chiswick Mall with its famous brewery nearby, and Kelmscott House, the London home of William Morris.
The Destination
Hammersmith Bridge connects Hammersmith, on the left bank, with Barnes on the right. The bridge is one of the most graceful on the river and is closed to motorised traffic. You will stay at The Bridge at Barnes, a lovely neighbourhood pub with rooms.
Day 16 Hammersmith Bridge to Tower Bridge 11.4 miles
The Journey
You continue to have the choice of left and right bank throughout the day. We would recommend you start on the left, walking through Bishop’s Park and past Fulham Palace, once the residence of the Bishop of London. Admire the Plan trees that line the riverbank.
Cross the river at Putney Bridge and you will soon be at Battersea Park with its famous Pagoda. The Path passes in front of the revitalised Battersea Power station. On you go and you will soon see the Houses of Parliament gleaming in the sunshine across the river as you pass the moving Covid Memorial Wall.
For the next three miles, not only will you have glorious views of the Houses of Parliament, St Paul’s Cathedral and The Tower of London, but you will pass directly by the Tate Modern, the Globe Theatre, the Golden Hinde, and HMS Belfast. Hopefully you will have time to experience one or more of these.
The Destination
You will stay at Motel One, or similar. It’s perfectly placed for a visit to the Tower of London. Still a Royal Palace, it has been a base for kings and queens of England since the 11th century. A guided tour by one of the Yeomen is a memorable experience. So too is a view of the Crown Jewels.
Day 17 Tower Bridge to Woolwich 11.8 miles
The Journey
Tower Bridge is the last bridge on the Thames Path although there are rail tunnels as well as a foot tunnel at Greenwich. So you will not be able to hop across the river as perhaps you did earlier. On the right bank are the districts of Bermondsey, Rotherhithe and Deptford, mostly regenerated land but with the occasional historic gem coming through: The Mayflower Pub named after the ship that set sail from Rotherhithe and landed in Cape Cod, 400 years ago. Almost next door is the Brunel Museum dedicated to the pioneering engineer whose works we see so much of on the Thames Path.
The left bank takes you through the lovely St Katherine’s Docks and into Wapping. Stop for a pint at Ian McKellan’s pub, The Grapes, where Charles Dickens used to frequent. Past Wapping you walk through Canary Wharf where you can marvel at how this area has been transformed from decaying docklands to a financial hub. Past Canary Wharf you walk under the Thames via a foot tunnel to re-emerge at Greenwich.
Although you will be staying at Greenwich tonight you must press on to the finish. It’s not pretty by any means but the peninsula of North Greenwich, with the O2 arena at its zenith, is nonetheless interesting. Once round the peninsula you will see the Thames Barrier and, after a further 1.2 miles, Woolwich, the (new) end of the Thames Path.
The Destination
The Thames Barrier was built in 1982 to prevent rising sea levels from flooding the Thames. The Thames Path used to finish here but it was recently extended to Woolwich, where it meet the England Coast Path. Woolwich was once home to the Royal Arsenal and you can admire the historic buildings which have been tastefully converted into flats, offices, bars and shops.
You will be returning to Greenwich for your overnight stay as there is nothing suitable in Woolwich. There are a number of public transport options but the best way is to catch the Thames Clipper boat service to Greenwich arriving in style.
Your hotel, The Mitre, is in the heart of this historic town with plenty of restaurants nearby.
Hopefully you will have time to explore Greenwich. Greenwich was the site of a Royal Palace. It was knocked down by Charles II in 1660 to make way for the Royal Naval College which now houses the National Maritime Museum. You can also visit the Royal Observatory although that will involve a 0.6 mile walk up a hill. Maybe next time?
Prices
Prices inclusive of bed and breakfast plus baggage transfer between hotels. A map and guide book is also included. You will have unlimited access to our local team in the event of difficulties.
Price per person assuming shared occupancy: £2,330
Price per person assuming single occupancy: £3,715
Rest days can be purchased but prices vary depending on category of hotel.